Air Conditioner Installation in Clinton Township: What to Expect

By NEXT Heating & Cooling | March 2, 2026 | 12 min read

You've decided it's time for a new air conditioner. Maybe your old unit finally died during last July's heat wave, or maybe you're tired of watching your DTE bill climb every summer while your house stays uncomfortably warm. Either way, you're researching what actually happens during an AC installation in Clinton Township—and what you should expect from start to finish.

After 35 years installing air conditioners across Macomb County, we've learned that homeowners appreciate knowing exactly what's coming. Not the sales pitch version—the real version. What happens before installation day? How long does it take? What will the crew actually do in your house? And what separates a quality installation from one that'll cause problems down the road?

This guide walks through the entire process of AC installation services from a contractor's perspective. We'll cover the pre-installation assessment, equipment selection, installation day timeline, testing procedures, and what you should expect to pay in Clinton Township in 2026. If you're comparing contractors or just want to understand what you're buying, this is the information you need.

What Happens Before Installation Day

A quality AC installation starts days—sometimes weeks—before the crew shows up at your house. The pre-installation work determines whether your new system will run efficiently for 15 years or struggle from day one.

The Load Calculation (Manual J)

First step: figuring out what size air conditioner your house actually needs. This isn't guesswork based on square footage. It's a Manual J load calculation that accounts for your home's insulation, window orientation, ductwork layout, ceiling height, and how many people live there.

We measure every room. We check insulation levels in the attic and walls. We note which windows face south (where you get the most solar heat gain in Michigan). We calculate how much heat your house gains on a 95-degree day and how much cooling capacity you need to offset it.

Too many contractors skip this step and just match the tonnage of your old unit. That's a problem if your old unit was oversized—which is common in homes built in the 1960s and 70s when contractors routinely oversized equipment "to be safe." An oversized AC short-cycles, runs inefficiently, and doesn't dehumidify properly. Clinton Township's humid summers make dehumidification critical for comfort.

Most Clinton Township homes between 1,500 and 2,000 square feet need a 2.5-ton to 3-ton system. Larger homes (2,500+ square feet) typically need 3.5 to 4 tons. But those are rough guidelines—the load calculation gives you the precise answer for your specific house.

Ductwork Inspection and Airflow Assessment

Next, we inspect your ductwork. Even a perfectly sized, high-efficiency AC won't perform well if your ducts are undersized, leaking, or poorly designed.

We're checking for:

• Duct leaks: Especially at joints and connections in the basement or attic. Leaky ducts waste 20-30% of cooled air before it reaches your rooms.
• Proper sizing: Many older Clinton Township homes have undersized return ducts that restrict airflow. Your AC needs 400 CFM (cubic feet per minute) of airflow per ton of cooling. A 3-ton system needs 1,200 CFM. If your return duct can't handle that volume, the system can't perform.
• Insulation: Ducts running through unconditioned spaces (attics, crawl spaces) need R-8 insulation minimum. Uninsulated ducts in a 130-degree attic lose massive amounts of cooling.
• Register placement: Are supply registers positioned to deliver air where it's needed? Are return registers pulling air from the right locations?

If we find issues, we'll recommend repairs before installation. Sometimes that means sealing ducts with mastic (not duct tape—that stuff fails). Sometimes it means adding a return duct or upsizing trunk lines. These repairs add cost, but they're essential for system performance. Installing a new AC on bad ductwork is like putting new tires on a car with bent wheels—you won't get the results you're paying for.

Electrical Assessment

Modern high-efficiency air conditioners draw less power than older units, but we still verify your electrical service can handle the load. Most AC installations require a dedicated 240-volt circuit with appropriate amperage for the condenser unit.

If you're upgrading from a 13 SEER single-stage unit to a 16 SEER variable-speed system, the electrical requirements might differ. We check your breaker panel, verify wire gauge, and make sure the disconnect box at the outdoor unit meets current code.

Permits and Inspections

In Clinton Township, AC installation requires a mechanical permit from the building department. The contractor pulls this permit—it's included in your installation cost. After installation, a municipal inspector verifies the work meets Michigan mechanical code.

This isn't bureaucratic hassle—it's protection. The inspection ensures refrigerant lines are properly sized, electrical connections are safe, condensate drains are installed correctly, and the system meets manufacturer specifications. If a contractor suggests skipping the permit "to save money," that's a red flag. Unpermitted work can cause problems when you sell your house, and it voids manufacturer warranties.

For homeowners researching central air conditioner costs in Michigan, understanding these pre-installation steps helps explain why quality contractors charge more than the low-bid guys who skip load calculations and ductwork assessments.

Choosing the Right AC System for Your Clinton Township Home

Once we know what size system you need, it's time to choose the equipment. This decision affects your comfort, energy bills, and maintenance costs for the next 12-15 years.

SEER Ratings: What They Mean in Real Terms

SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) measures how efficiently an air conditioner converts electricity into cooling. Higher SEER means lower operating costs. As of 2023, the minimum SEER for new AC units in northern states is 14 SEER. But you'll see options ranging from 14 to 20+ SEER.

Here's what those numbers mean for a typical Clinton Township home running AC from June through September:

• 14 SEER (base efficiency): Lowest upfront cost, highest operating cost. Expect $450-$650 in summer cooling costs for a 2,000-square-foot home.
• 16 SEER (mid-tier efficiency): Moderate upfront cost, better operating efficiency. Summer cooling costs drop to $350-$500. Most popular choice for Michigan homeowners.
• 18-20 SEER (high efficiency): Higher upfront cost, lowest operating costs. Summer cooling costs around $280-$400. These systems typically include variable-speed technology for better humidity control.

The efficiency jump from 14 to 16 SEER typically pays for itself in 5-7 years through energy savings. The jump from 16 to 18+ SEER takes longer to recoup—usually 8-12 years. For most Clinton Township homeowners, 16 SEER hits the sweet spot of upfront cost versus long-term savings.

If you're comparing variable-speed versus single-stage AC systems, that guide breaks down the performance differences in detail.

Single-Stage vs. Two-Stage vs. Variable-Speed Compressors

Beyond SEER ratings, compressor technology affects comfort and efficiency:

Single-stage compressors run at full capacity whenever they're on. It's either 100% or off—no in-between. These are the most affordable option and work fine for basic cooling, but they cycle on and off frequently, which creates temperature swings and doesn't dehumidify as well.

Two-stage compressors run at two speeds: full capacity for hot days, and a lower speed (typically 60-70% capacity) for mild days. This provides better temperature control, longer run times for improved dehumidification, and quieter operation. The efficiency gain over single-stage is noticeable—usually 2-3 SEER points higher.

Variable-speed compressors adjust output from 25% to 100% in small increments, matching cooling output precisely to your home's needs. These systems run almost continuously at low speeds, maintaining consistent temperatures and excellent humidity control. They're the quietest option and the most efficient, but also the most expensive upfront.

For Clinton Township's humid summers, we typically recommend at least a two-stage system. The improved dehumidification makes a significant comfort difference. Variable-speed systems are ideal if humidity control is a priority or if you have family members sensitive to temperature fluctuations.

Equipment Brands: What We Install and Why

We install Carrier, Lennox, Trane, Rheem, Bryant, Goodman, Amana, York, and RUUD systems. All are quality manufacturers with solid warranties and available parts. The brand matters less than proper sizing, correct installation, and regular maintenance.

That said, here's how we typically guide Clinton Township homeowners:

• Carrier and Trane: Premium brands with excellent reliability and strong warranty support. Higher upfront cost, but these units consistently last 15+ years with proper maintenance.
• Lennox: Strong mid-to-high-tier option with advanced features. Good efficiency ratings and solid performance in Michigan climate.
• Rheem and Bryant: Reliable mid-tier brands offering good value. Bryant is actually manufactured by Carrier—essentially the same equipment at a lower price point.
• Goodman and Amana: Budget-friendly options with decent reliability. Good choice if upfront cost is the primary concern and you're willing to accept a potentially shorter lifespan (12-14 years versus 15+ for premium brands).

We don't push specific brands. We present options at different price points and let you decide what fits your budget and priorities. A properly installed Goodman system will outperform a poorly installed Carrier system every time—which brings us to the next section.

Installation Day Timeline: Hour by Hour

Installation day for a standard AC replacement in Clinton Township typically takes 6-8 hours with a two-person crew. Here's what actually happens, broken down by timeline.

Hour 1-2: Removal of Old Equipment

We start by safely removing your old system. First step: recovering refrigerant from the old unit using an EPA-certified recovery machine. Federal law requires proper refrigerant recovery—venting it to atmosphere is illegal and carries heavy fines. This process takes 20-30 minutes.

Next, we disconnect electrical connections at the outdoor condenser and the indoor evaporator coil. We cap refrigerant lines, disconnect the condensate drain, and remove the old evaporator coil from the furnace plenum.

The outdoor condenser gets unbolted from its pad and removed. If it's sitting on an old cracked concrete pad, we'll discuss replacing it—a level, stable pad is essential for proper unit operation and longevity.

We haul away all old equipment. You won't have an old condenser sitting in your yard for weeks.

Hour 3-4: Installing the Indoor Evaporator Coil

The indoor evaporator coil mounts on top of your furnace (or air handler if you have a heat pump or don't have gas heat). This is where refrigerant absorbs heat from your indoor air.

We measure and cut the furnace plenum to fit the new coil. Modern coils are typically cased coils—they come in an insulated cabinet that mounts directly to the furnace. We seal all joints with mastic to prevent air leaks.

We install a new condensate drain line with proper pitch (1/4 inch per foot minimum) so water drains properly. In Michigan, this drain typically runs to a floor drain, sump pump, or exterior drain. We install a trap in the drain line to prevent air from being pulled through the drain during system operation.

If your furnace is older and the plenum is in rough shape, we might recommend replacing it. A new plenum adds cost but ensures proper airflow and prevents future problems.

Hour 4-6: Installing the Outdoor Condenser Unit

Outside, we position the new condenser on a level pad. If we're installing a new pad, we use a composite plastic pad or poured concrete—both work well. The pad must be level and stable. An unlevel condenser causes vibration, noise, and premature compressor failure.

We run new refrigerant lines from the outdoor unit to the indoor coil. These are copper lines—a liquid line and a suction line—that carry refrigerant between the indoor and outdoor units. Proper line sizing is critical. Undersized lines restrict refrigerant flow and reduce efficiency. Oversized lines cause oil return problems.

We insulate the suction line (the larger of the two lines) with closed-cell foam insulation to prevent condensation and heat gain. The liquid line doesn't require insulation in most installations, but we protect both lines from physical damage and UV exposure.

We run new electrical wiring from your breaker panel to the outdoor unit, using appropriate wire gauge for the unit's amperage requirements. We install a weatherproof disconnect box within sight of the condenser—code requires this for safety.

All refrigerant connections are brazed (welded with high-temperature silver solder) while flowing nitrogen through the lines. Brazing in a nitrogen atmosphere prevents oxidation inside the copper tubing, which can cause compressor failure down the road. Contractors who skip this step are cutting corners.

Hour 6-7: Vacuum and Refrigerant Charging

Before adding refrigerant, we evacuate the system using a vacuum pump. This removes all air and moisture from the refrigerant lines. Moisture in the system causes ice formation, corrosion, and compressor damage. We pull a vacuum to 500 microns or lower and hold it for at least 15 minutes to verify there are no leaks.

Once the system passes the vacuum test, we charge it with the correct type and amount of refrigerant. R-410A is standard for modern systems (older systems used R-22, which is being phased out). We charge by weight using a scale, following manufacturer specifications exactly. Overcharging or undercharging reduces efficiency and can damage the compressor.

Hour 7-8: System Testing and Final Adjustments

With refrigerant charged, we start the system and begin testing. We measure:

• Airflow: Using a manometer to measure static pressure across the coil. Proper airflow is 400 CFM per ton. Too little airflow causes the coil to freeze. Too much airflow reduces dehumidification.
• Superheat and subcooling: These refrigerant measurements verify the system is charged correctly. We measure temperatures and pressures at specific points and compare them to manufacturer charts.
• Temperature split: The difference between return air temperature and supply air temperature should be 16-22 degrees on a properly operating system. Lower split indicates airflow problems or refrigerant issues. Higher split can indicate overcharging.
• Amp draw: We measure electrical current to verify the compressor and fan motors are operating within specifications.

We program your thermostat (or install a new one if needed) and walk you through its operation. We show you where the air filter goes and explain the maintenance schedule.

Finally, we clean up. We vacuum the work area, remove all packaging materials and old equipment, and leave your house cleaner than we found it. The municipal inspector will visit within a few days to verify the installation meets code.

Clinton Township Installation Note: Most installations in Clinton Township homes are straightforward replacements where ductwork is already in place. If you're adding central AC to a house that never had it, installation takes longer (2-3 days) because we need to install ductwork, which involves cutting into walls and ceilings. That's a different project with different costs—typically $8,000-$15,000 depending on house size and layout.

After Installation: Testing, Cleanup, and What You Need to Know

Installation day is complete, but there are a few more steps before you're fully set up.

The Break-In Period

New AC systems need a short break-in period—usually the first few days of operation. During this time, you might notice:

• Slightly louder operation than expected (new components settling in)
• Occasional unusual sounds as refrigerant equalizes in the system
• The outdoor unit running longer than your old system (this is normal—especially with two-stage or variable-speed systems that run at lower speeds for longer periods)

These are normal. If you notice refrigerant leaks (oil spots around connections), water leaking inside the house, or the system not cooling, call us immediately. But in most cases, everything runs smoothly from day one.

Warranty Registration

Manufacturer warranties require registration within 60-90 days of installation. We handle this for you, but verify it's done. Parts warranties typically run 5-10 years depending on the brand and model. Some manufacturers offer extended warranties for an additional cost.

The labor warranty comes from the contractor, not the manufacturer. Our installations include a one-year labor warranty covering any installation-related issues. After that, labor for repairs is your responsibility unless you're enrolled in a maintenance plan.

Speaking of maintenance plans, this is the right time to mention the Next Care Plan—our $5/month preventive maintenance subscription. Members get two annual tune-ups (spring AC service, fall furnace service), priority scheduling, 10% repair discounts, and no service call fees. For a new AC system, regular maintenance is essential for maintaining efficiency and catching small problems before they become expensive repairs.

What Maintenance Looks Like

Your new AC needs annual maintenance—ideally in spring before cooling season starts. Maintenance includes:

• Cleaning the outdoor condenser coil (removes dirt, cottonwood seeds, grass clippings that restrict airflow)
• Checking refrigerant charge and looking for leaks
• Measuring airflow and temperature split
• Inspecting electrical connections and tightening terminals
• Lubricating fan motors if needed
• Cleaning or replacing the air filter
• Checking condensate drain for clogs
• Verifying thermostat calibration

Skipping maintenance is the fastest way to void your warranty and shorten system lifespan. We see it constantly—homeowners skip tune-ups for 3-4 years, then call when the system stops working. By then, the condenser coil is so clogged the compressor overheats and fails. That's a $2,000-$3,500 repair that could have been prevented with $150 annual maintenance.

For more on this topic, see our guide on HVAC maintenance plan benefits that breaks down the cost-prevention math.

What AC Installation Actually Costs in Clinton Township (2026)

Let's talk numbers. AC installation costs vary based on system size, efficiency rating, brand, and installation complexity. Here's what Clinton Township homeowners are paying in 2026 for complete installations including equipment, labor, permits, and startup.

Standard Replacement Installation (2.5-3.5 Ton Systems)

14 SEER Single-Stage System: $4,200-$5,800
Entry-level efficiency. Basic single-stage compressor. Brands like Goodman, Amana, or base-model Rheem. Includes standard installation on existing pad with existing ductwork. Good option if budget is the primary concern and your ductwork is in decent shape.

16 SEER Two-Stage System: $5,500-$7,500
Mid-tier efficiency. Two-stage compressor for better comfort and humidity control. Brands like Bryant, Lennox, or mid-tier Carrier/Trane. This is the most popular choice for Clinton Township homeowners—good balance of upfront cost, efficiency, and performance.

18-20 SEER Variable-Speed System: $7,800-$11,000
High efficiency. Variable-speed compressor with advanced controls. Premium Carrier, Trane, or Lennox models. Best comfort and lowest operating costs. Worth considering if you plan to stay in the house long-term and want maximum efficiency and humidity control.

What Adds to the Base Cost

Those prices assume a straightforward replacement with no major complications. Here's what increases cost:

• Ductwork repairs or modifications: $800-$2,500 depending on scope. Sealing leaks, adding return ducts, or upsizing trunk lines.
• New thermostat: $150-$400 for a programmable or smart thermostat (Honeywell, Ecobee, Nest).
• New concrete pad: $200-$400 if your old pad is cracked or unlevel.
• Electrical upgrades: $300-$800 if your breaker panel needs a new circuit or the existing wiring doesn't meet current code.
• Condensate pump: $250-$400 if your drain line can't gravity-drain and needs a pump to lift water to a drain location.
• Line set replacement: $400-$800 if your existing refrigerant lines are damaged or too small for the new system.

Financing and Rebates

Most HVAC contractors offer financing through third-party lenders. Interest rates vary based on credit score, but promotional 0% financing for 12-24 months is common during spring and fall.

Check for utility rebates. DTE Energy and Consumers Energy occasionally offer rebates for high-efficiency equipment ($300-$500 for systems above 16 SEER). Availability changes annually, so verify current programs when you're ready to buy. We covered this in detail in our guide to DTE and Consumers Energy AC rebates.

Why Prices Vary Between Contractors

You'll get wildly different quotes for the same equipment. Here's why:

Low-bid contractors ($3,500-$4,500 for systems that should cost $5,500-$6,500) cut corners. They skip load calculations, don't pull permits, use unlicensed helpers, don't vacuum the lines properly, and disappear when warranty issues arise. You save $1,500 upfront and spend $3,000 fixing problems later.

High-bid contractors ($8,000-$10,000 for systems that should cost $5,500-$7,000) rely on aggressive sales tactics, commission-based salespeople, and heavy marketing costs. You're paying for their advertising budget, not better installation quality.

Fair-price contractors ($5,000-$7,500 for mid-tier systems) do the job right—load calculations, proper installation, permits, testing, and follow-up service. They charge what the work actually costs with reasonable profit margins. That's where we position ourselves as a reliable HVAC contractor in Metro Detroit.

When comparing quotes, verify what's included: permit fees, startup service, warranty registration, condensate drain installation, thermostat, disposal of old equipment. A quote that seems high might include things other quotes omit.

Why Proper Installation Matters More Than the Equipment

Here's something most homeowners don't realize: installation quality affects system performance more than brand name or efficiency rating.

A 16 SEER Goodman system installed correctly will outperform an 18 SEER Carrier system installed poorly. The equipment is only as good as the installation.

What Goes Wrong with Poor Installation

We see these problems constantly when we're called to diagnose systems installed by other contractors:

Improper refrigerant charge: The system is overcharged or undercharged because the installer didn't measure superheat and subcooling. Result: reduced efficiency, poor cooling, and premature compressor failure. Compressor replacement costs $1,800-$3,500—more than the money saved by hiring a cheap contractor.

Undersized or leaking ductwork: The installer didn't assess airflow. The system can't move enough air through the ducts. Result: frozen coils, short cycling, hot and cold spots, and high humidity. If you're experiencing issues like your thermostat not reaching set temperature, ductwork is often the culprit.

Improper drain installation: The condensate drain doesn't have proper pitch or a trap. Result: water backs up and leaks into your house, or air gets pulled through the drain causing pressure problems.

Skipped vacuum procedure: The installer didn't evacuate moisture from the refrigerant lines. Result: ice formation in the expansion valve, reduced capacity, and eventual compressor failure.

Wrong equipment size: No load calculation was performed. The system is oversized or undersized. Result: short cycling, poor humidity control, uncomfortable temperature swings, and reduced equipment life.

These aren't rare problems. They're epidemic in the HVAC industry because too many contractors focus on selling equipment rather than performing quality installations.

What to Look for in an Installation Contractor

When you're comparing contractors for AC installation in Clinton Township, here's what matters:

• NATE certification: North American Technician Excellence is the industry's leading certification for HVAC technicians. It requires passing rigorous exams on installation practices, system diagnostics, and building science. Not all techs are NATE-certified, but it's a good indicator of technical competence.
• Michigan mechanical contractor license: Required by law. Verify the contractor holds a valid license through the Michigan Department of Licensing and Regulatory Affairs.
• Proper insurance: General liability and workers' compensation. If a tech gets hurt on your property and the contractor doesn't have workers' comp, you could be liable.
• Detailed written quote: Should specify equipment model numbers, SEER ratings, warranty terms, and what's included (permit, startup, old equipment removal, etc.). Vague quotes are red flags.
• References and reviews: Check Google, BBB, and local reputation. We've been serving Macomb County for 35+ years and maintain an A+ BBB rating—that doesn't happen by accident.
• No-pressure sales approach: Quality contractors educate and present options. They don't use high-pressure tactics or create artificial urgency ("this price expires today"). If you feel pressured, walk away.

You can learn more about our credentials and company history if you want to verify what we're saying here.

Ready to Schedule Your AC Installation?

NEXT Heating & Cooling has installed thousands of air conditioners across Clinton Township and Macomb County since 1991. Our NATE-certified technicians perform Manual J load calculations, proper ductwork assessments, and installations that meet manufacturer specifications and Michigan mechanical code. No high-pressure sales. No commission-based upselling. Just honest diagnostics and quality work.

Get Your Free Estimate

Frequently Asked Questions About AC Installation in Clinton Township

How long does air conditioner installation take? +

A standard AC replacement in Clinton Township takes 6-8 hours with a two-person crew. This assumes we're replacing an existing system and the ductwork is in good condition. If we need to repair ductwork, install a new concrete pad, or upgrade electrical service, installation can extend to a full day or two days. Installing central AC in a house that never had it (requiring new ductwork installation) typically takes 2-3 days depending on house size and layout complexity.

What size air conditioner do I need for my Clinton Township home? +

System sizing requires a Manual J load calculation that accounts for your home's square footage, insulation levels, window placement, ductwork design, and ceiling height. Most Clinton Township homes between 1,500-2,000 square feet need a 2.5-3 ton system. Homes 2,000-2,500 square feet typically need 3-3.5 tons. Larger homes (2,500+ square feet) usually need 3.5-4 tons. But these are rough guidelines—the load calculation provides the precise answer for your specific house. Oversized systems short-cycle and don't dehumidify properly. Undersized systems run constantly and can't keep up on hot days.

Do I need to replace my furnace when I replace my air conditioner? +

Not necessarily. If your furnace is less than 10-12 years old and working properly, you can replace just the AC. However, if your furnace is 15+ years old, it makes sense to replace both at the same time. You'll save on labor costs (the crew is already there), you'll get matched equipment that works together efficiently, and you won't face a furnace replacement emergency in the middle of a Michigan winter. Many manufacturers offer better warranties when you install matched heating and cooling systems. We evaluate your furnace during the AC assessment and give you honest recommendations—we don't push unnecessary replacements.

What's the difference between 14 SEER and 16 SEER, and is it worth the extra cost? +

SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) measures cooling efficiency. A 16 SEER system uses about 14% less electricity than a 14 SEER system. For a typical Clinton Township home, that translates to $80-$120 in annual savings. The upfront cost difference is usually $800-$1,200, meaning the efficiency upgrade pays for itself in 7-10 years through energy savings. Beyond the efficiency numbers, 16 SEER systems typically include two-stage compressors that provide better humidity control and more consistent temperatures compared to single-stage 14 SEER units. For Michigan's humid summers, that comfort improvement is significant. Most homeowners find 16 SEER the best value—better performance than 14 SEER without the premium cost of 18+ SEER systems.

Can I install central AC if my house only has a furnace and no ductwork? +

If you have a forced-air furnace, you already have ductwork—the same ducts that distribute heat in winter can distribute cool air in summer. We add an evaporator coil to your furnace and connect it to an outdoor condenser unit. If your house has a boiler or radiator heat (common in older Clinton Township homes built before 1960), you don't have ductwork. In that case, you have two options: install a complete duct system (expensive—typically $8,000-$15,000 depending on house size and how difficult it is to run ducts), or install ductless mini-split systems that don't require ductwork. Mini-splits work well but cost more per room than central AC when you're cooling a whole house.

How often should I have my air conditioner serviced after installation? +

Annual maintenance is essential—schedule service every spring before cooling season starts. Maintenance includes cleaning the condenser coil, checking refrigerant charge, measuring airflow, inspecting electrical connections, and verifying the condensate drain is clear. Skipping maintenance is the fastest way to void your warranty and shorten system lifespan. We see systems fail prematurely all the time because homeowners skipped tune-ups for 3-4 years. By the time they call, the condenser coil is so clogged the compressor overheats and fails—a $2,000-$3,500 repair that could have been prevented with $150 annual maintenance. Our Next Care Plan covers two annual visits (spring AC tune-up and fall furnace tune-up) for $5/month, plus you get priority scheduling and 10% off any repairs.

What brands of air conditioners do you recommend for Clinton Township homes? +

We install Carrier, Lennox, Trane, Rheem, Bryant, Goodman, Amana, York, and RUUD. All are quality manufacturers with solid warranties and available parts. The brand matters less than proper sizing, correct installation, and regular maintenance. That said, Carrier and Trane are premium brands with excellent reliability and typically last 15+ years with proper maintenance. Lennox, Rheem, and Bryant are strong mid-tier options offering good value. Goodman and Amana are budget-friendly choices—decent reliability at lower upfront cost, though they typically have shorter lifespans (12-14 years versus 15+ for premium brands). We don't push specific brands—we present options at different price points and let you decide what fits your budget and priorities. A properly installed Goodman will outperform a poorly installed Carrier every time.